Tag: Tim

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Terradillos de los Templarios to Bercianos del Real Camino

24.5 km and 4:57 (see map).

Many small villages along the way today, so equally as many stops for coffee, tea, food. The Camino essentially followed the route of the autovia (A-231), but on a path some way from the road so there was no traffic noise to contend with and the birdsong dominated. Lovely relaxed walking again through farmland with lots of flowers out along the path – red poppies, blue cornflowers, white and yellow daisies, and every now and then the yellow flowers of rapeseed plants.

This is the entrance to one of the hillside bodegas (used for storing food, wine) at Moratinos, the first village of the day.

The long and (not quite winding) road.

David (L) and Tim (R) with an American Bob at an early coffee stop (San Nicolás del Real Camino).

On the way to Sahagún.

Olga (centre) with two Englishmen.

Medieval bridge, Sahagùn.

Tim and David with Ash from Ireland.

Nearing Bercianos del Real Camino.

Typical display of wildflowers by the path.

Queuing to check in at the donativo in Bercianos del Real Camino. It opened at 1:30.

Check in.

Communal dinner. Paella in the pans. Lots of fun. After dinner each nationality present had to sing a song fron their country; the three Australians did all verses of Waltzing Matilda (to rapturous applause I might add).

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Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz

20.2 km and 4:02 (see map).

Early in the walk. Long shadows from the sun rising behind us.

Standard scene for the first few hours – green crops, blue skies, cotton-wool clouds.

Further along the meseta.

Wind farms all around. Counted 35 generators in this one (on the skyline).

The path down to Hontanas …

… and morning tea (well, a coffee actually and a fabulous sandwich called a zapatilla – crusty bread, with tomatoes, olive oil and lashings of jamon serrano).

Met up at Hontanas with Tim again and his friend David also from the UK and who joined the Camino at Burgos. Tim at the rear in this shot, David in front with June from Canada who I walked with to Hontanas.

En route to Castrojeriz, from Hontanas.

San Antón.

David from the UK.

David from Australia.

Entering Castrojeriz.

Room at the municipal hostel. €5 for the night. No extra for snorers.

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Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

20.8 km and 4:14 (see map). Or thereabouts.

Good walking through rolling country in dry, mild weather (the forecast afternoon rain didn’t eventuate).

One of the backstreets in Nájera, soon after the start of the day’s walk.

Heading into the countryside, beyond the Nájera town boundary. Still plenty of grape vines.

An hour later and arrive at this village for breakfast.

Company for breakfast – Margherita (from NZ) and Tim (UK).

Back into wheat and barley country.

Approaching Santo Domingo de la Calzada. The blue flowers are cornflowers.

Bike wash for the cyclists doing the Camino.

Tim is having a rest day tomorrow in Sto Domingo, but I’m carrying on. It’s likely we’ll meet up again in the coming wreks, further along the Camino and beyond Burgos. I’ve enjoyed his company these past days (since Los Arcos I think, which makes it four days).

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Viana to Navarrete

22.2 km and 4:39 (see map).

An overcast start to the day. It started raining soon afterwards and didn’t clear for a couple of hours. The stunning landscapes of the past week finally gave way to the drab monotony of a large conurbation, Logrono. Once into the old town though it was a different matter – another lovely medieval town to walk through. Stopped for breakfast for an hour (waiting for the rain to pass as well as filling up on coffee) then headed off again for the final 10 km to Naverrete. The rain stopped, the clouds broke up allowing the sun to shine through and the city was left behind.

At the border between Navarre and La Rioja regions.

Bridge over the Rio Ebro, leading into the old quarter of Logrono.

Tim, my walking companion.

Town plaza in Logrono.

Walking through the Logrono city streets.

Finally at the city outskirts.

Nearing Navarrete.

Only 576 km to Santiago.

Mother walking at least a part of the Camino with young son plus pushchair plus large pack. Didn’t get to hear her story.

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Los Arcos to Viana

An easy walk today – 18 km and 3:48 (see map).

The country is opening up now, out of the high passes and deep valleys of the past week. Land use is changing gradually too, from predominantly wheat, barley and rape to grapes and groves of olive and almond trees. Good weather for walking – mild, warm (but not excessively so). Not so many peregrinos on the path either through the day – numbers seem to have thinned out since Pamplona.

With Bill (from Ireland) at a coffee stop.

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Estella to Los Arcos

A shorter day today – 20.7 km and 4:28 (see map).

Easy walking, again through lovely rolling countryside.

At the outskirts of Estella …

Then, a stop at the wine fountain for a scallop-shell full of rioja …

The green crops are wheat and barley. The yellow-flowered crops are rape.

Have found a bed for the night in an albergue run by an Austrian (€11 for bunk in 4-bed room, €3.50 for breakfast in the morning). Los Arcos another medieval town with a large church. Nice square to sit in the sun in, and the wifi from the nearby bar is strong.

I’ve been on the camino now for seven days, with one day off. Settling in to a comfortable daily rhythm. Very affordable traveling: accommodation €8-18 a night, the cheaper end of that range in municipal hostels; €1-1.50 for a cup of coffee or tea; €4-5 for breakfast – orange juice, coffee, boccadillo (sandwich with ham and cheese) and about the same for lunch; €10 for three-course peregrinos dinner – salad, main (usually meat and sauce or chips, and tart for dessert, plus glass of passable red); €1.50 for glass of red in a bar.