Terradillos de los Templarios to Bercianos del Real Camino

24.5 km and 4:57 (see map).

Many small villages along the way today, so equally as many stops for coffee, tea, food. The Camino essentially followed the route of the autovia (A-231), but on a path some way from the road so there was no traffic noise to contend with and the birdsong dominated. Lovely relaxed walking again through farmland with lots of flowers out along the path – red poppies, blue cornflowers, white and yellow daisies, and every now and then the yellow flowers of rapeseed plants.

This is the entrance to one of the hillside bodegas (used for storing food, wine) at Moratinos, the first village of the day.

The long and (not quite winding) road.

David (L) and Tim (R) with an American Bob at an early coffee stop (San Nicolás del Real Camino).

On the way to Sahagún.

Olga (centre) with two Englishmen.

Medieval bridge, Sahagùn.

Tim and David with Ash from Ireland.

Nearing Bercianos del Real Camino.

Typical display of wildflowers by the path.

Queuing to check in at the donativo in Bercianos del Real Camino. It opened at 1:30.

Check in.

Communal dinner. Paella in the pans. Lots of fun. After dinner each nationality present had to sing a song fron their country; the three Australians did all verses of Waltzing Matilda (to rapturous applause I might add).

Carrión de los Condes to Terradillos de los Templarios

26.3 km and 5:08 (see map).

A long first section (17 km) with no villages, and the path almost as straight as a die. Farmland all around – wheat mostly, and mildly undulating except for the last stretch from Calzadilla de la Cueza to Terradillos de los Templarios which was slightly more hilly.

Somewhere along the route today I passed the halfway point between Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and Santiago de Compostela. The Michelin guidebook has the total distance at 784 km; I’ve done 398.

Pre-dawn at Carrión de los Condes.

The walk started on a sealed secondary road then soon turned onto a good made dirt road. Stayed on the dirt for the remainder of the day.

Approaching the first village of the day – Calzadilla de la Cueza, 17 km after setting out.

Leaving Calzadilla de la Cueza.

Arriving at Ledigos. Did toy with the idea of staying here, but the albergue wasn’t particularly inspiring so decided to keep going for another 3 km to Terradillos de los Templarios.

Terradillos de los Templarios on the horizon …

… and entering the village. Found a good albergue here.