Burgos

May 20, 2016April 27, 2020

Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

As much as I enjoyed the rest days in Burgos, it’s good to be back on the Camino. 21.3 km and 4:20 today (see map).

Dawn departure and a last look at the cathedral …

… then westwards through the back streets …

… across the Arlanzón …

… then through parkland to the city limits.

Open paths from then on for a while.

The path follows the alignment of a rail line and a freeway for a way.

Then it’s back alongside the Arlanzón near Tardajos.

Tardajos. Coffee and boccadillo stop.

Through the prettiest village of the day, Rabé de las Calzades.

Then a gradual climb up onto the meseta. Stunning country.

On top of the plateau.

Then down a rocky path towards Hornillos del Camino.

The end of the walk today.

Relaxing in the albergue garden.

May 19, 2016April 27, 2020

0 km. Another rest day.

Head off tomorrow towards León, around 174 km and eight days across the high basin (above 800 m) of the northern Meseta (plateau). I’m looking forward to the open country, to what I think will be a starkly beautiful landscape. But today, it’s a day of wandering Burgos.

Called into the markets to stock up on fruit for tomorrow.

Floral displays on many public buildings in central Burgos – this one the military museum.

Will be following these markers out of town tomorrow.

Lunch. Morcilla (blood sausage) on the left; zucchini wrapped around minced beef on the right.

Bought a new Camino guidebook. Michelin. Maps and elevation profiles only. (I bought John Brierley’s A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino de Santiago last time I was in Burgos, but decided not to bring it as it added weight and I had downloaded basic maps to my phone. It’s almost the bible for many peregrinos though – as ubiquitous amongst them as Lonely Planet guides are for European backpackers in Australia.)

Route for tomorrow’s leg.

Burgos, from the castle. The cathedral -Catedral de Santa María – is prominent.

May 18, 2016April 27, 2020

Burgos

0 km. Rest day!

Breakfast. Most food groups represented.

A clear, sunny day. The Rio Arlanzón and the Arco de Santa María.

Lunch with the girls.

(L–R) Mercedes, Sara and Isi. Three generations. Maria (Mercedes’ sister) present in spirit.

Spied Richard Flanagan’s The Narrow Road to the Deep North for sale in a bookshop. Spanish edition. Wouldn’t mind reading it (I enjoyed his Death of a River Guide), but my Spanish isn’t good enough (yet) to tackle a novel.

Local bar with good variety of pinchos.

May 17, 2016April 27, 2020

Agés to Burgos

22 km and 4:24 (see map).

A foggy start, but the sun was out within the hour and it cleared to a beautiful day. Nice walking to the outskirts of Burgos, a bit of a slog through the outer suburbs and then back into interesting areas as the old city neared. Quite elated to be here. And looking forward to a rest day tomorrow and catching up with Maria and Manuel’s family.

First stop of the day, for coffee. 10 m from my albergue.

Didn’t see any bounding beasts …

… but there was a flock of sheep a little further along the path (only the second I’ve seen so far – the other was being driven towards Santo Domingo de la Calzada by a shepherd with dogs).