Bercianos del Real Camino to Reliegos

20.6 km and 4:18 (see map).

An undistinguished walk today, other than it being through more beautiful rolling countryside. Only one village en route, at the 8 km mark, so consequently the couple of cafés there did a roaring breakfast trade from the passing peregrinos.

I did consider continuing on past Reliegos to the next town 6 km away, but a lot of folk were heading there and the albergues would fill quickly so I decided to stop at Reliegos, a relaxed little village with a few albergues to choose from. It’s 2:30 pm now and I’m still the only peregrino in the small bunk room so maybe I get lucky and have it all to myself. There’s a bar at the front and for €1.50 you get a glass of very passable vino blanco and a free pinchos (in this case bread with a sardine and tomato slice on top, drizzled with olive oil).

Back to the walk.

Coming into El Burgo Ranero, the first and only en-route village of the day.

The church at El Burgo Ranero.

Scenes on the way to Reliegos.

Entering Reliegos.

A jamón serrano on the counter of the bar next to the albergue. Weighs more than my entire pack so I reluctantly had to leave it behind.

Terradillos de los Templarios to Bercianos del Real Camino

24.5 km and 4:57 (see map).

Many small villages along the way today, so equally as many stops for coffee, tea, food. The Camino essentially followed the route of the autovia (A-231), but on a path some way from the road so there was no traffic noise to contend with and the birdsong dominated. Lovely relaxed walking again through farmland with lots of flowers out along the path – red poppies, blue cornflowers, white and yellow daisies, and every now and then the yellow flowers of rapeseed plants.

This is the entrance to one of the hillside bodegas (used for storing food, wine) at Moratinos, the first village of the day.

The long and (not quite winding) road.

David (L) and Tim (R) with an American Bob at an early coffee stop (San Nicolás del Real Camino).

On the way to Sahagún.

Olga (centre) with two Englishmen.

Medieval bridge, Sahagùn.

Tim and David with Ash from Ireland.

Nearing Bercianos del Real Camino.

Typical display of wildflowers by the path.

Queuing to check in at the donativo in Bercianos del Real Camino. It opened at 1:30.

Check in.

Communal dinner. Paella in the pans. Lots of fun. After dinner each nationality present had to sing a song fron their country; the three Australians did all verses of Waltzing Matilda (to rapturous applause I might add).