Daily posts

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Villafranca del Bierzo to Vega de Valcarce

17.5 km and 4:07 (see map).

A shaded walk under trees and by a river – the Río Valcarce – for much of the way. A lovely easy walk. Lots of small villages en route.

Bridge over the Río Burbia, at Villafranca del Bierzo.

Downstream of the bridge …

… and upstream.

Villafranca del Bierzo from the road out of the village.

The Camino follows the course of the Río Valcarce to Vega de Valcarce, on a path by mostly quiet roads.

Nearing Vega de Valcarce.

Thinking about alternatives to the long-haul flight home. An overland trek through the ‘stans, Mongolia, China, etc. has a certain appeal … in one of these.

A LWB Sll would do the trick.

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Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo

24.1 km and 5:57 (see map).

A great walk through many villages and towns and into the foothills. A bit warm as the day wore on – mid to high 20s.

Leaving Ponferrada.

Looking back to Ponferrada.

First church of the day.

Some of the walking was along quiet country roads.

Lindell – I’ve found a place for us to buy! All it needs is a potted geranium on the doorstep.

The ferreterias are small hardware stores. Interesting places!

Onwards towards Villafranca del Bierzo.

Summer attire on the Camino. Certainly one way to travel light.

€1 for a bag of fresh cherries. A good place to stop.

Through a shady grove of trees. The white stuff on the ground is fluffy and light and comes from a particular type of tree. Looks a little like snow.

The final section of the path into Villafranca is through vineyards.

First sight of Villafranca.

Some shots of the town.

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Acebo to Ponferrada

15.1 km and 4:05 (see map).

Descended around 600 m, most of it over the initial 8 km from Acebo to Molinaseca. For the first few kms the track was on the road, then turned onto a rocky and rutted track through trees. That made the going slow as the surface was loose, but later the path opened out into more open country and the remaining section into Molinaseca was on the road again. Sealed lanes and unsealed roads for the final stretch to Ponferrada.

Into the first village of the day, Riego de Ambros.

On the way down to Molinaseca.

Molinaseca nestled amongst the hills ahead.

Molinaseca.

Ponferrada on the skyline.

Campo, a village near outskirts of Ponferrada.

Ponferrada castle.

One of the plazas at siesta time.

€145 for a 6.5-7.5 kg jamón iberico at the local supermarket; less than half that for an equivalent weight serrano.

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Rabanal del Camino to Acebo

17.6 km and 4:48 (see map).

A slower walk today due to 350 m climb out of Rabanal del Camino and then later a steepish descent on a rocky rutted track to Acebo. Stopped for the day earlier than expected because I came across a new albergue (La Casa del Peregrino) that had a swimming pool. A warm day and a big pool with clear water was too much to resist.

Steph from the UK (via NZ), leaving Rabanal del Camino. Walking partner for the day.

Shots from the climb up to Foncebadón.

First coffee stop. Foncebadón.

On the way up to Cruz de Ferro. 1,504 m.

And at Cruz de Ferro. It’s the main cross where pilgrims leave stones representing their worries. (The cross we passed the other day serves the same purpose, but clearly isn’t as popular as this one.)

The inscription on the stone above reads, in German “a long journey begins with the first step”.

From Cruz de Ferro, it’s down a bit then up a bit again to the highest point of the day – 1,515 m, then a steepish descent on a rocky path down to Acebo, where I stopped walking for the day.

Pilgrim blessing underway on the way through this small hamlet.

Ponferrada down in the distant valley.

On way through Acebo.

And the reason for stopping early.

The swim was the best!

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Astorga to Rabanal del Camino

19.6 km and 4:37 (see map).

Up more into the hills today. 300 m elevation gain over the 20 km, so a very gentle almost indiscernable climb (Rabanal del Camino at 1,150 m).

First cross of the day …

…and a short distance further on, the first church.

Coffee stop in this village.

Typical scenery in the early stages of the walk

Another village and coffee stop coming up.

Towards Rabanal del Camino.

A scramble up a small hill …

… and we’re there, Rabanal del Camino.

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Hospital de Órbigo to Astorga

17.6 km and 4:27 (see map).

First rate walking today, through villages, rolling hills, farmland, trees.

Decorated streets in Hospital de Órbiga, in readiness for jousting festival on the weekend.

Heading out into the countryside … and for the distant hills.

Found a friend at the first village. Conversation not up to Tim and David’s standards, but equally as friendly.

Up the first hill, maybe the first since leaving Burgos and crossing the Meseta.

Down the other side.

And up again.

Pilgrim memorial along the way.

Crossed a plateau once the (shortish) climb was done.

Enterprising soul running a massage, fruit juice and open-air refuge not far from the start of the descent to Astorga.

A cross – Cruceiro Santo Toribio – where some leave a stone that represents their worries and that they’ve carried with them since the start of your Camino. I heard a cyclist remark to his wife, who was struggling up the hill behind him, that he should leave her there.

Astorga, about 4 km away.

And a little closer.

This fellow doing the Camino on an electric bike, with a large umbrella deployed as a parasol.

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Villadangos del Páramo to Hospital de Órbigo

11.9 km and 2:51 (see map).

I decided to split the 28 km from Villadangos del Páramo to Astorga into two days, to be kind to my improving leg. (‘Hospital’ refers not to where I’m staying the night – I’ve found a good albergue – but to a pilgrims hospital established in the 16th century by the Knights Hospitaller, on the right side of the Río Órbigo.)

On the way out of Villadangos del Páramo.

Long shadows in the soft light of the early morning. We’re still on the Meseta it seems, but the foothills of the upcoming mountains loom closer.

A beautiful day for walking. The Camino again followed the N-120 closely, but the traffic noise wasn’t so bad.

Many irrigation channels in the area.

Gratuitous shot of wildflowers.

Heading towards Hospital de Órbigo.

Still haven’t seen any.

Welcome to Hospital de Órbigo …

… and this is the first real view of the town itself – a stunning restored medieval bridge.

Jousting be done here.

House styles somewhat different from other towns so far.

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León to Villadangos del Páramo

19.3 km and 4:55 (see map). Slow and steady.

On the way out of León at dawn.

Through the ‘burbs …

… past the bodegas …

… to the first coffee stop, at La Virgen del Camino. About 7.5 km to here.

Alternative Camino route off to the left, but I decided to stay on main path …

… that followed essentially the route of the N-120.

Stork central. High demand in the area for infant delivery services?

More bodegas buried in the hillsides.

Approaching Villadangos del Páramo. Staying at the municipal albergue – €5 for the night.

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León

Rest day. Last one.

Scouted the route back to the Camino this morning. I’ll join it tomorrow at this bridge over the Río Bernesga, the Puente de San Marcos …

… which runs off the Plaza de San Marcos. (The tree in flower in the left of the photo is apparently a chestnut.)

The building that is the backdrop to the plaza is a convent called (not unsurprisingly) the Convento de San Marcos. No longer full of nuns – it’s now occupied at one end by a hotel, the other by a museum.

Another view of the Río Bernesga.

The dull and damp weather of the past days has gone. Today is still and mild – warm even in the sun, and the forecast for the coming days is good.

I’ve succumbed and bought trekking poles. Lindell suggested they might help ease the strain on the leg/hip on the hill and mountain sections ahead. I feel slightly old using them – to which some of you might think “Well, now that you mention it …!” – but I’m sure they’ll prove their worth in the days and weeks ahead. They’ll also come in handy for poking dormitory snorers.

Petanca by the river.

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León

Rest day.

Cold gone. Leg much improved; one more rest day will see it right I think. Will head off on the final section of the Camino on Wednesday.

Gaudí’s Casa Botines in Plaza de San Marcelo. Public access is to the ground floor only, which is architecturally unexceptional; offices occupy the upper floors, but they’re off limits so the building’s interior grandeur can’t be fully appreciated.

Features on the roof of a walkway at the side of the cathedral.

Pretty houses in the back lanes.

And a shot of the cathedral from yesterday evening when the sun was out.