21.3 km and 4.59 (see map).
A damp start to the day – low cloud and light misty rain, but not cold.
It’s good walking in the gloom through the fields, along the forest paths and through the many small villages and dairy farms.
Most of the cows are housed in sheds; it’s unusual to see any in the fields. And there’s a constant reminder of the nature of the agricultural activity in the area – the smell of freshly cut hay and the pungent-but-not-altogether-unpleasant aroma of silage.
The weather started to improve later in the morning, with the sun out at Palas de Rei, the largest town on the route today. I had my credencial stamped at the cathedral, grabbed a cup of tea and a pastry, and headed off for a few km to find an albergue for the night. There aren’t many albergues along the initial section of the 29 km stretch from Palas de Rei to Arzúa and I’d heard it might be difficult to get a bed so I opted to stop at the first albergue that had room. There’s not much other than the albergue at Ponte Campaña; in fact that’s all there is. €10 a night for a bunk bed and €10 for dinner. Good value. (Ponte Campaña is about 3.5 km on from Palas de Rei and 1.3 km from Casanova. It’s 26 km to Arzúa, which is where I’ll head tomorrow.)
